The Sunday before Gus was born, wayyyyy back a whole two weeks ago, we met up with friends in Mathews for the annual Mathews Market Days celebration. It was the perfect way to get ready for the fall season (and to walk a baby out, apparently). Even if it was still almost 90 degrees, the Middle Neck is looking gorgeous this time of year, there are definitely hints of autumn all around, from the beginning-to-brown corn fields to the early morning mists to the fishing and crabbing boats on the rivers and marshes. Plus there is just something fall-like about spending an afternoon in a picturesque small town, where everybody seems to know each other and are glad to welcome you and show off the best of what they have to offer.

Market day highlights: The kids' play area (new this year!), lunch at the Southwind Cafe, browsing the stellar book sale at the Mathews Memorial Library, and watching the dads play the hit-the-anvil strong man game (hubba hubba).

There are a few more local(ish) fall festivals coming up that we have penciled in on the calendar -- I don't know if our baby schedule will allow us to make most of them, but I'm posting them anyway because they really sound too good to be missed.

West Point Crab Carnival (October 2-3) | Fall Festival of Folklife (Newport News, October 3-4) | Phoebus Fall Festival (Hampton, October 10) | Chippokes Harvest and Halloween Festival (Surry, October 17) | Virginia Thanksgiving Festival at Berkeley Plantation (Charles City, November 1) | Urbanna Oyster Festival (November 6-7) |

Am I the only person who is completely taken in by the idea of a crab carnival? It sounds so deliciously festive. The name is a draw in itself, good job West Point tourism board!

Locals, have you been to any of these? What did you think?

After our stint on Bodie Island last week, James had to go home to work, but Anouk and I headed south to Hatteras Island to meet up with family. We stayed in Buxton -- about midway down the island, a good middle point right smack dab between Pea Island and Hatteras Village. It was only a little over an hour away from where we'd been staying in Kitty Hawk, but the feel of the place was totally different. The further south we drove, the more of a laid-back small country town vibe we encountered. But there were still tons of things to do and see.

We started each day of our trip with breakfast at the Orange Blossom Bakery & Cafe. I feel like this is notable, because when I'm on vacation, there's not a lot that can get me out of my PJs and on the road before 10 or so. However, if you want to get one of the Orange Blossom's apple uglies (giant, delicious apple fritters), you need to get there before they sell out. So we got up bright and early, and off we went.








^^ They call them apple uglies for a reason. And that reason is deception.

Another must-see is the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, which has the distinction of being the tallest lighthouse in the United States. In fact, it was so much fun that our group visited twice. The view from the top is supposed to be fantastic (the my cousins swore they could see for miles), but the climb is arduous, especially in hot weather -- akin to climbing a 12-story building with no air conditioning. Kids under 42" can't go to the top, children under 12 have to be accompanied by an adult, and during the height of the season, wait times to climb can be 30-60 minutes. Unfortunately, Anouk and I had to wait down below, but luckily there was enough to see around the grounds and in the museum that we didn't feel cheated (the exhibit on how the lighthouse was moved over a half-mile from its original location was truly fascinating.)






And of course, there was the beach. The beach! Just a few short steps from our front door -- we could hear the waves all night, even with the windows closed. It almost seems inaccurate to say that we went to the beach while we were in town because it didn't seem like we were ever very far away from it. Wherever we looked, there was golden sand and deep blue water. Anouk was still a little afraid of the water, but the big girls and I jumped right in. And we taught cousin D. to body surf -- her first time ever in the ocean. She took to it like a pro (and those aren't beginner-type waves).



A few more notes about places to go in the Buxton (and surrounding) area: Conner's Supermarket, which looks like a standard grocery store but actually has a great selection of organic and local foods; The Captain's Table, which has the best Hatteras-style clam chowder I've ever tasted; Uglie Mugs Coffee Shop and Haoles Sushi a few miles north in Avon; Buxton Village Books, which offers a great selection of books about the Outer Banks; Buxton Cemetery (make sure you have four-wheel drive). And I also highly suggest just turning down one of the many roads off of the sound side of Highway 12 around about sunset. Because you might just get a view like this:



And that's something definitely worth seeing.

Anne and I spent three days at the beach last week -- in April! Tuesday, we went for a beautiful walk at East Beach, Wednesday we met up with friends at the Community Beach Park for a bracing swim, and on Thursday, we hit Willoughby Spit with our Auntie C. for a stroll along the Ocean View Fishing Pier.

The pier used to be known as Harrison's Pier, an iconic Norfolk landmark until it was swept away in Hurricane Isabel in 2003. I remembered crabbing from Harrison's Pier as a kid, but hadn't been back since the new pier was built. The new pier looked flashy and bright and swell, with the double-decker restaurant on top, but it just wasn't the same as the old pier I knew and loved. So I didn't even bother getting to know the new one. As you might have realized by now, I am not the biggest fan of change.

But on this 90-degree day, we were in search of some sun and sand and bright blue water and the pier is where we found it. We took our time walking out, pausing to peer down between the rails at the waves, turning back to wave at the sunbathers scattered along the shore of the Sarah Constant Beach. By the time we'd reached the building smack dab in the middle of the pier that houses the restaurant and tackle shop, the sea air had given us an appetite, so we decided to stop for lunch, and climbed the stairs to the rooftop level restaurant.

The rooftop deck of the pier restaurant is a wonderful place to be on a hot day. Even when it's stifling on the ground, there is sure to be a breeze ruffling around up top. There are also giant table/bench gliders to rock on while you enjoy it. And the view! We could see for miles, to the bridge-tunnel and to Point Comfort, all the way out to the Thimble Shoal light, which seemed a lot closer than you think it can be when you're looking for it from the shore.

(And the food wasn't bad either. We shared the steamer basket of clams and mussels, Aunt C. and A. and I. Two of our party of three had Bloody Marys that were just fantastic -- I'll let you guess which two! They don't skimp on olives at the OV Pier restaurant, no sir. Keep that in mind.)


For a fee, we could have gone through the tackle shop to the far side of the pier but we were content to stay up top and watch the fishermen there go about their business. The pier seemed to stretch for a long, long way out -- the same way it did when I was a kid. Some things don't change.


(What? Don't you wear galoshes and a tutu to the beach??)

Happy weekend!

From the moment I stepped foot in the Beach Pub, I could tell that it was going to be a great kid-friendly dining experience. A nice chatty atmosphere, crayon art all over the walls, babies everywhere, and nobody giving their parents the stink eye.

From the moment I had the first sip of my Bloody Mary, I could tell I had found a new favorite brunch location to add to the list.

Jackpot.

J. and I discovered the Beach Pub halfway through an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives airing late one night on the Food Network. We watch so much Food Network that we've become a little desensitized to it, but as we watched the Beach Pub footage we found ourselves starting to perk up our ears. "Where is this place?" James asked. "Oh, please, oh please," I said, and Googled, and yes! Laskin Road, baby. Right down at the Oceanfront.

The food was just as delicious as it looked on the small screen. It did not disappoint. James had the crab omelet (with fresh, hot blueberry muffins), I shared a plate of broiled crab with butter with Anne (with a pasta salad that I honestly did not expect to be as good as it was), and for an appetizer, we ordered the famous Oysters Rockafeller that were featured on the DDD episode. Next time I go, I am skipping everything else and ordering them as my entree. (With a Bloody Mary, of course).




As we ate, we people watched a little -- the Beach Pub is a great place for people watching. Seersucker suits, Redskins Hawaiian shirts, folks in their Sunday best, folks in beach cover ups. The works. We were seated by the hostess station and of course Baby A. waved to each and every person who walked by, including the staff, who very good-naturedly waved back every single time. (I told you it was baby friendly).

Don't just take my word for it, though:

 I rest my case.